Tlhokomelo ea letsatsi, mme haholo ts'ireletso ea letsatsi, ke e 'ngoe ealikarolo tse holang ka potlako tsa mmaraka oa tlhokomelo ea motho.Hape, tšireletso ea UV e se e kenyelletsoa lihlahisoa tse ngata tsa litlolo tse sebelisoang letsatsi le leng le le leng (mohlala, lihlahisoa tsa tlhokomelo ea letlalo la sefahleho le litlolo tse khabisang), kaha bareki ba elelloa haholoanyane hore tlhokahalo ea ho itšireletsa letsatsing ha e sebetse feela matsatsing a phomolo a lebōpong la leoatle. .
Moqapi oa kajeno oa tlhokomelo ea letsatsie tlameha ho fihlela SPF e phahameng le litekanyetso tse thata tsa ts'ireletso ea UVA, ha e ntse e boetse e etsa lihlahisoa tse ntle ka ho lekaneng ho khothaletsa ho latela melao ea bareki, le ho boloka chelete e lekaneng hore e ka khoneha nakong e thata ea moruo.
Katleho le bokhabane ha e le hantle li itšetlehile ka tse ling; ho eketsa katleho ea lisebelisoa tse sebelisoang ho nolofalletsa lihlahisoa tse phahameng tsa SPF hore li thehoe ka maemo a fokolang a li-filters tsa UV. Sena se lumella moetsi hore a be le bolokolohi bo boholo ba ho ntlafatsa maikutlo a letlalo. Ka lehlakoreng le leng, botle bo botle ba sehlahisoa bo khothalletsa bareki ho sebelisa lihlahisoa tse ngata, kahoo ba atamele haufi le SPF e ngotsoeng.
Litšobotsi tsa Ts'ebetso tseo U Lokelang ho li Nahana ha U Khetha Lisefe tsa UV bakeng sa Liforomo tsa Litlolo
• Polokeho bakeng sa sehlopha se reriloeng sa basebelisi ba ho qetela- Lifilimi tsohle tsa UV li lekoa haholo ho netefatsa hore li bolokehile ka tlhaho bakeng sa ts'ebeliso ea lihlooho; leha ho le joalo batho ba bang ba nang le kutloelo-bohloko ba ka 'na ba hanana le mefuta e itseng ea lihloela tsa UV.
• Ho sebetsa hantle ha SPF- Sena se itšetlehile ka bolelele ba maqhubu a boholo ba ho monya, boholo ba ho monya, le bophara ba sekhahla sa ho monya.
• Ts'ireletso e batsi / UVA e sebetsang hantle- Metsoako ea sejoale-joale e sireletsang letlalo letsatsing e hlokahala ho finyella litekanyetso tse itseng tsa tšireletso ea UVA, empa seo hangata se sa utloisisoeng hantle ke hore tšireletso ea UVA le eona e kenya letsoho ho SPF.
• Tšusumetso ho maikutlo a letlalo- Lifilimi tse fapaneng tsa UV li na le litlamorao tse fapaneng maikutlong a letlalo; mohlala, li-filters tse ling tsa metsi li ka utloahala li "khomarela" kapa "tse boima" letlalong, ha lihloela tse qhibilihang metsing li etsa hore letlalo le ome.
• Ponahalo letlalong- Lifilimi tsa inorganic le likaroloana tsa tlhaho li ka baka bosoeu letlalong ha li sebelisoa maemong a phahameng; hangata sena ha se ratehe, empa lits'ebetsong tse ling (mohlala, tlhokomelo ea letsatsi la lesea) e ka nkoa e le molemo.
• Photostability- Lifilimi tse 'maloa tsa tlhaho tsa UV lia bola ha li pepesehetse UV, ka hona li fokotsa ts'ebetso ea tsona; empa lisebelisoa tse ling li ka thusa ho tsitsisa li-filters tsena tsa "photo-labile" le ho fokotsa kapa ho thibela ho bola.
• Ho hanyetsa metsi- Ho kenyelletsoa ha li-filters tsa UV tse thehiloeng metsing hammoho le tse thehiloeng ka oli hangata ho fana ka matlafatso e kholo ho SPF, empa ho ka etsa hore ho be thata le ho feta ho fumana ho hanyetsa metsi.
» Sheba Lisebelisuoa Tsohle Tse Fumanehang Tsa Tlhokomelo ea Letsatsi le Bafepedi ho Bobolokelo ba Litlolo
UV Filter Chemistries
Lisebelisoa tse sireletsang letsatsi ka kakaretso li khetholloa e le li-sunscreens kapa li-sunscreens tse sa tloaelehang. Litšireletseho tsa letsatsi li monya ka matla ka bolelele bo itseng ba maqhubu 'me li pepesehela khanyeng e bonahalang. Litlolo tse sireletsang letlalo letsatsing li sebetsa ka ho bonahatsa kapa ho hasanya mahlaseli a UV.
A re ithute ka tsona ka botebo:
Li-sunscreens tsa tlhaho
Li-sunscreens tsa tlhaho li boetse li tsejoa e leli-sunscreens tsa lik'hemik'hale. Tsena li na le limolek'hule tsa organic (carbon-based) tse sebetsang e le litlolo tse sireletsang letsatsi ka ho monya mahlaseli a UV le ho a fetolela matla a mocheso.
Organic Sunscreens Matla & Mefokolo
| Matla | Mefokolo |
| Bokhabane ba litlolo - li-filters tse ngata tsa lintho tse phelang, e ka ba metsi kapa lintho tse qhibilihang ka har'a metsi, ha li siee masala a bonahalang holim'a letlalo ka mor'a ho sebelisoa ho tsoa ho motsoako. | Narrow spectrum - tse ngata li sireletsa feela holim'a leqhubu le moqotetsane |
| Li-organics tsa setso li utloisisoa hantle ke baetsi ba lihlahisoa | "Li-cocktails" tse hlokahalang bakeng sa SPF e phahameng |
| Ho sebetsa hantle maemong a tlase | Mefuta e meng e tiileng e ka ba thata ho qhibiliha le ho e boloka e le tharollo |
| Lipotso mabapi le polokeho, ho teneha le phello ea tikoloho | |
| Lisefe tse ling tsa tlhaho ha li tsitsa |
Organic sunscreens Likopo
Li-filters tsa tlhaho li ka sebelisoa ho lihlahisoa tsohle tsa tlhokomelo ea letsatsi / ts'ireletso ea UV empa li kanna tsa se be tse loketseng lihlahisoa tsa masea kapa letlalo le nang le kutloelo-bohloko ka lebaka la monyetla oa ho hanana le batho ba nang le kutloelo-bohloko. Hape ha li tšoanelehe bakeng sa lihlahisoa tse etsang likopo tsa "tlhaho" kapa "organic" kaha kaofela ke lik'hemik'hale tsa maiketsetso.
Li-filters tsa Organic UV: Mefuta ea lik'hemik'hale
Li-derivatives tsa PABA (para-amino benzoic acid).
• Mohlala: Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA
• Lisefe tsa UVB
• Ha e sebelisoe hangata kajeno ka lebaka la mathata a polokeho
Li-salicylates
• Mehlala: Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate
• Lisefe tsa UVB
• Theko e tlase
• Ts'ebetso e tlase ha e bapisoa le lihloela tse ling tse ngata
Cinnamates
• Mehlala: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Iso-amyl Methoxycinnamate, Octocrylene
• Lisefe tsa UVB tse sebetsang hantle haholo
• Octocrylene e khona ho nka lifoto 'me e thusa ho tsitsisa li-filters tse ling tsa UV, empa li-cinnamate tse ling li na le ho se bone hantle ha lifoto.
Benzophenones
• Mehlala: Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4
• Fana ka ho monya ha UVB le UVA ka bobeli
• Tšebeliso e tlase haholo empa e thusa ho matlafatsa SPF ha e kopane le li-filters tse ling
• Benzophenone-3 ha e sebelisoe hangata Europe matsatsing ana ka lebaka la mathata a polokeho
Li-derivatives tsa triazine le triazole
• Mehlala: Ethylhexyl triazone, bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
• E sebetsa hantle haholo
• Tse ling ke lihloela tsa UVB, tse ling li fana ka tšireletso e pharaletseng ea UVA/UVB
• E ntle haholo photosstability
• Ho bitsa chelete e ngata
Lintho tse tsoang ho Dibenzoyl
• Mehlala: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDM), Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB)
• Li-absorer tsa UVA tse sebetsang hantle haholo
• BMDM ha e na bokhoni ba ho nka lifoto, empa DHHB e khona ho nka lifoto haholoanyane
Lintho tse tsoang ho benzimidazole sulfonic acid
• Mehlala: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (PBSA), Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (DPDT)
• Ho qhibiliha ha metsi (ha ho se na letho ka motheo o loketseng)
• PBSA ke sefahla sa UVB; DPDT ke sefe ea UVA
• Hangata bontša litšebelisano le li-filters tse qhibilihang ka oli ha li sebelisoa hammoho
Li-derivatives tsa camphor
• Mohlala: 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor
• Sefepi sa UVB
• Ha e sebelisoe hangata kajeno ka lebaka la mathata a polokeho
Anthranilates
• Mohlala: Menthyl anthranilate
• Lisefe tsa UVA
• Ts'ebetso e tlase haholo
• Ha e amoheloe Europe
Polysilicone-15
• Silicone polymer e nang le chromophores ka liketane tse ka thōko
• Sefepi sa UVB
Litlolo tse sireletsang letlalo letsatsing
Li-sunscreens tsena li boetse li tsejoa e le li-sunscreens tsa sebele. Tsena li na le likaroloana tsa inorganic tse sebetsang e le litlolo tse sireletsang letsatsi ka ho monya le ho hasanya mahlaseli a UV. Li-sunscreens tse sa sebetseng li fumaneha e le li-powders tse omeletseng kapa li-pre-dispersions.
Inorganic sunscreens Matla & Mefokolo
| Matla | Mefokolo |
| Bolokehile (bo-i-tse-la) /safe-ke-tsi | Maikutlo a bofokoli ba aesthetics (letlalo le bosoeu letlalong) |
| Bophara bo pharaletseng | Ho ka ba thata ho etsa li-powders |
| SPF e phahameng (30+) e ka finyelloa ka ts'ebetso e le 'ngoe e sebetsang (TiO2) | Li-inorganics li 'nile tsa tšoaroa lipuisanong tsa nano |
| Li-dispersions li bonolo ho li kenyelletsa | |
| Photostable |
Likopo tsa Inorganic Sunscreens
Li-sunscreens tse sa sebetseng li loketse ts'ebeliso efe kapa efe ea ts'ireletso ea UV ntle le litlolo tse hlakileng kapa li-sprays tsa aerosol. Li loketse ka ho khetheha bakeng sa tlhokomelo ea letsatsi la masea, lihlahisoa tsa letlalo le bonolo, lihlahisoa tse etsang lipolelo tsa "tlhaho", le litlolo tse khabisitsoeng.
Mefuta ea lik'hemik'hale tsa UV tse sa tloaelehang
Titanium dioxide
• Ha e le hantle ke sefe ea UVB, empa limaraka tse ling li fana ka tšireletso e ntle ea UVA
• Mefuta e fapaneng ea limaraka e fumaneha ka boholo bo fapaneng ba likaroloana, lirafshoa, joalo-joalo.
• Limaraka tse ngata li oela sebakeng sa nanoparticles
• Likaroloana tse nyane ka ho fetisisa li bonaletsa letlalong empa li fana ka tšireletso e fokolang ea UVA; tse kholoanyane li fana ka tšireletso e eketsehileng ea UVA empa li soeufala haholoanyane letlalong
Zinc oxide
• Haholo-holo sefe ea UVA; SPF e tlase ho feta TiO2, empa e fana ka tšireletso e betere ho feta TiO2 sebakeng se selelele sa "UVA-I"
• Mefuta e fapaneng ea limaraka e fumaneha ka boholo bo fapaneng ba likaroloana, lirafshoa, joalo-joalo.
• Limaraka tse ngata li oela sebakeng sa nanoparticles
Ts'ebetso / Chemistry matrix
Sekhahla ho tloha ho -5 ho ea ho +5:
-5: phello e mpe ea bohlokoa | 0: ha ho na phello | +5: phello e ntle ea bohlokoa
(Tlhokomeliso: bakeng sa litšenyehelo le ho soeufala, "phello e mpe" e bolela litšenyehelo kapa ho soeufala hoa eketseha.)
| Litšenyehelo | SPF | UVA | Boikutlo ba Letlalo | Ho soeufala | Botsitso ba lifoto | Metsi | |
| Benzophenone-3 | -2 | +4 | +2 | 0 | 0 | +3 | 0 |
| Benzophenone-4 | -2 | +2 | +2 | 0 | 0 | +3 | 0 |
| Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine | -4 | +5 | +5 | 0 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| Butyl Methoxy-dibenzoylmethane | -2 | +2 | +5 | 0 | 0 | -5 | 0 |
| Diethylamino Hydroxy Benzoyl Hexyl Benzoate | -4 | +1 | +5 | 0 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone | -4 | +4 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| disodium Phenyl Dibenzimiazole Tetrasulfonate | -4 | +3 | +5 | 0 | 0 | +3 | -2 |
| Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA | -1 | +4 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +2 | 0 |
| Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate | -2 | +4 | +1 | -1 | 0 | -3 | +1 |
| Ethylhexyl salicylate | -1 | +1 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +2 | 0 |
| Ethylhexyl Triazone | -3 | +4 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| Homosalate | -1 | +1 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +2 | 0 |
| Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate | -3 | +4 | +1 | -1 | 0 | -2 | +1 |
| Methyl Anthranilate | -3 | +1 | +2 | 0 | 0 | -1 | 0 |
| 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor | -3 | +3 | 0 | 0 | 0 | -1 | 0 |
| Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol | -5 | +4 | +5 | -1 | -2 | +4 | -1 |
| Octocrilene | -3 | +3 | +1 | -2 | 0 | +5 | 0 |
| Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid | -2 | +4 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +3 | -2 |
| Polysilicone-15 | -4 | +1 | 0 | +1 | 0 | +3 | +2 |
| Tris-biphenyl Triazine | -5 | +5 | +3 | -1 | -2 | +3 | -1 |
| Titanium Dioxide - kereiti e bonaletsang | -3 | +5 | +2 | -1 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| Titanium Dioxide - kereiti e pharaletseng ea spectrum | -3 | +5 | +4 | -2 | -3 | +4 | 0 |
| Zinc oxide | -3 | +2 | +4 | -2 | -1 | +4 | 0 |
Lintlha tse Amang Ts'ebetso ea Lisefe tsa UV
Litšobotsi tsa ts'ebetso tsa titanium dioxide le zinc oxide li fapana haholo ho latela thepa ea sehlopha se itseng se sebelisitsoeng, mohlala. ho roala, sebopeho sa 'mele (phofo, ho hasana ho thehiloeng ka oli, ho hasana ho thehiloeng metsing).Basebelisi ba lokela ho buisana le bafani ba thepa pele ba khetha kereiti e nepahetseng ho fihlela sepheo sa bona sa tšebetso tsamaisong ea bona ea ho etsa lintho.
Ho sebetsa hantle ha li-filters tsa UV tse qhibilihang ka oli ho susumetsoa ke ho qhibiliha ha tsona ho li-emollients tse sebelisoang ha ho etsoa. Ka kakaretso, li-emollients tsa polar ke li-solvents tse ntle ka ho fetisisa bakeng sa li-filters tsa tlhaho.
Ts'ebetso ea li-filters tsohle tsa UV e susumetsoa haholo ke boitšoaro ba rheological ea sebopeho le bokhoni ba eona ba ho etsa filimi e ts'oanang, e momahaneng letlalong. Tšebeliso ea liforomo tse loketseng tsa lifilimi le li-additives tsa rheological hangata li thusa ho ntlafatsa katleho ea li-filters.
Motsoako o khahlisang oa li-filters tsa UV (synergies)
Ho na le metsoako e mengata ea li-filters tsa UV tse bontšang likamano. Litholoana tse ntle ka ho fetisisa tsa synergistic hangata li finyelloa ka ho kopanya li-filters tse tlatsanang ka tsela e itseng, mohlala: -
• Ho kopanya lihloela tse qhibilihang ka oli (kapa tse qhalakantsoeng ka oli) ka lisefe tse qhibilihang ka metsi (kapa tse qhalakantsoeng ka metsi).
• Ho kopanya lihloela tsa UVA le lihloela tsa UVB
• Ho kopanya lihloela tsa inorganic le li-organic filters
Ho boetse ho na le metsoako e itseng e ka hlahisang melemo e meng, mohlala, hoa tsebahala hore octocrylene e thusa ho tsitsisa li-filters tse ling tsa photo-labile tse kang butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.
Leha ho le joalo motho o tlameha ho lula a hopola thepa ea bohlale sebakeng sena. Ho na le litokelo tse ngata tsa litokelo tse koahelang metsoako e itseng ea lifilthara tsa UV, 'me baetsi ba lihlahisoa ba eletsoa ho lula ba lekola hore motsoako oo ba rerang ho o sebelisa ha o tlole litokelo tsa molao tsa mokha oa boraro.
Khetha filthara e nepahetseng ea UV bakeng sa Tlhahiso ea hau ea Cosmetic
Mehato e latelang e tla u thusa ho khetha sefe (li)sefe tse nepahetseng tsa UV bakeng sa sebopeho sa hau sa litlolo:
1. Hlalosa lipheo tse hlakileng tsa ts'ebetso, litšobotsi tse ntle le likopo tse reriloeng bakeng sa ho etsoa.
2. Hlahloba hore na ke li-filters life tse lumelloang bakeng sa 'maraka o reretsoeng.
3. Haeba u na le chassis e khethehileng eo u lakatsang ho e sebelisa, nahana hore na ke sefe se tla lumellana le chassis eo. Leha ho le joalo haeba ho khoneha ho molemo ho khetha li-filters pele le ho rala sebopeho se potolohileng tsona. Sena ke 'nete haholo-holo ka li-inorganic kapa li-particulate organic filters.
4. Sebelisa likeletso tse tsoang ho bafani ba thepa le/kapa lithulusi tsa ho bolela esale pele joalo ka BASF Sunscreen Simulator ho tseba metsoako e lokelang ho etsoa.finyella SPF e reriloengle lipehelo tsa UVA.
Metsoako ena e ka lekoa ka li- formulations. Mekhoa ea tlhahlobo ea In-vitro SPF le UVA e thusa mothating ona ho bonts'a hore na ke mefuta efe e fanang ka litholoana tse ntle ho latela ts'ebetso - tlhaiso-leseling e batsi mabapi le ts'ebeliso, tlhaloso le meeli ea liteko tsena li ka bokelloa ka thupelo ea SpecialChem e-training:UVA/SPF: Ho ntlafatsa Liteko tsa hau tsa liteko
Liphetho tsa liteko, hammoho le liphetho tsa liteko le litlhahlobo tse ling (mohlala, botsitso, matla a ho boloka, letlalo la letlalo), li thusa moetsi ho khetha khetho e ntle ka ho fetisisa le ho tataisa nts'etsopele ea (li)qapi.
Nako ea poso: Jan-03-2021